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When compiling a ranking of London’s best dining spots, one might anticipate renowned high-end venues. Yet, nestled high among these food titans is a simple salonu situated in a distant corner of north London.

A Unexpected Accolade

This compact Turkish restaurant, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the 4th finest restaurant in the city by a influential culinary publication. The honour has left the owners completely astonished.

“I am totally surprised,” says the owner’s son, alluding to his parents’ dedication that resulted in their humble place achieving such a high position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

The little venue, which started as a simple cafe before its transformation into a popular destination, has kept much of its earlier charm. It fits just more than 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking performance, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy space,” notes the owner.

The Signature Dish: Tantuni

However, it’s all down to the fare, and this establishment definitely excels. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a succulent quality.

It is then thrown into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. As the savoury mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to take in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is wrapped tightly inside.

It is typically enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a strong burst of taste, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The leading food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is doused in lighter syrup than usual, resulting in it a deeper, nuttier and more balanced flavour.

Surpassing the Stars

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the peak of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant full for below £25, comparable experiences at luxury establishments can cost significantly more than that amount.

The Ethos of Heart

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I don’t agree with that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is friendliness, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is supported by the list’s editor, who stated that if he was in a role of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the traps of excess, and to show what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Journey of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t train at fancy restaurants. “I feel very proud of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum used to be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a social life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

A Accomplishment for the Community

This restaurant’s accolade is bound to resonate outside its own walls. “In my opinion many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the greater significance of this culinary honour.