The City of Bristol's Backyard Wine Gardens: Foot-Stomping Grapes in City Gardens

Each quarter of an hour or so, an older diesel railway carriage arrives at a graffiti-covered station. Close by, a law enforcement alarm pierces the near-constant road noise. Commuters hurry past collapsing, ivy-covered fencing panels as rain clouds gather.

This is maybe the last place you expect to find a well-established vineyard. But one local grower has managed to 40 mature vines heavy with round mauve grapes on a rambling garden plot sandwiched between a line of 1930s houses and a local rail line just north of Bristol town centre.

"I've seen people hiding illegal substances or whatever in the shrubbery," states Bayliss-Smith. "Yet you just get on with it ... and keep tending to your vines."

Bayliss-Smith, 46, a documentary cameraman who also has a kombucha drinks business, is among several local vintner. He has pulled together a informal group of growers who produce wine from four hidden city grape gardens nestled in back gardens and allotments across Bristol. It is sufficiently underground to possess an formal title so far, but the group's messaging chat is called Grape Expectations.

Urban Wine Gardens Across the World

So far, the grower's allotment is the only one registered in the Urban Vineyards Association's upcoming global directory, which includes better-known city vineyards such as the eighteen hundred vines on the slopes of the French capital's historic Montmartre area and more than 3,000 grapevines overlooking and inside the Italian city. The Italian-based charitable organization is at the vanguard of a movement reviving urban grape cultivation in historic wine-producing countries, but has discovered them throughout the globe, including urban centers in Japan, South Asia and Uzbekistan.

"Grape gardens help urban areas stay more eco-friendly and ecologically varied. These spaces protect open space from construction by creating long-term, productive farming plots inside cities," explains the association's president.

Similar to other vintages, those created in cities are a result of the earth the plants grow in, the vagaries of the weather and the people who tend the fruit. "Each vintage embodies the charm, community, landscape and history of a urban center," notes the president.

Mystery Eastern European Grapes

Back in Bristol, the grower is in a race against time to harvest the vines he grew from a plant abandoned in his garden by a Polish family. If the precipitation arrives, then the birds may take advantage to attack once more. "This is the mystery Polish grape," he comments, as he removes damaged and mouldy grapes from the glistering bunches. "The variety remains uncertain what variety they are, but they're definitely disease-resistant. In contrast to noble varieties – Pinot Noir, white wine grapes and other famous European varieties – you need not treat them with pesticides ... this could be a special variety that was bred by the Eastern Bloc."

Group Activities Across the City

The other members of the collective are additionally making the most of sunny interludes between bursts of fall precipitation. On the terrace with views of Bristol's shimmering waterfront, where medieval merchant vessels once bobbed with casks of wine from France and the Iberian peninsula, Katy Grant is harvesting her rondo grapes from about fifty vines. "I adore the smell of the grapevines. The scent is so evocative," she says, stopping with a basket of fruit resting on her arm. "It's the scent of southern France when you roll down the vehicle windows on holiday."

The humanitarian worker, fifty-two, who has devoted more than two decades working for humanitarian organizations in conflict zones, unexpectedly took over the vineyard when she moved back to the United Kingdom from Kenya with her family in recent years. She experienced an overwhelming duty to maintain the grapevines in the garden of their new home. "This vineyard has already survived three different owners," she explains. "I deeply appreciate the concept of natural stewardship – of passing this on to someone else so they can continue producing from this land."

Terraced Vineyards and Natural Production

Nearby, the remaining cultivators of the group are hard at work on the steep inclines of the local river valley. One filmmaker has established more than 150 plants situated on ledges in her wild half-acre garden, which descends towards the muddy local waterway. "People are always surprised," she notes, gesturing towards the tangled vineyard. "They can't believe they are viewing grapevine lines in a urban neighborhood."

Today, Scofield, sixty, is harvesting clusters of deep violet dark berries from rows of vines arranged along the hillside with the assistance of her child, her family member. The conservationist, a wildlife and conservation film-maker who has worked on streaming service's Great National Parks series and television network's Gardeners' World, was inspired to plant grapes after seeing her neighbour's vines. She's discovered that hobbyists can make intriguing, enjoyable traditional vintage, which can sell for upwards of £7 a serving in the growing number of wine bars specialising in low-processing vintages. "It's just incredibly satisfying that you can truly create quality, natural wine," she says. "It's very on trend, but in reality it's reviving an traditional method of making wine."

"During foot-stomping the grapes, all the natural microorganisms are released from the skins and enter the juice," says Scofield, partially submerged in a container of tiny stems, seeds and crimson juice. "This represents how wines were made traditionally, but industrial wineries introduce sulphur [dioxide] to kill the wild yeast and subsequently incorporate a commercially produced yeast."

Challenging Environments and Creative Solutions

A few doors down active senior Bob Reeve, who inspired his neighbor to establish her grapevines, has gathered his friends to pick Chardonnay grapes from one hundred vines he has laid out neatly across two terraces. The former teacher, a Lancashire-born PE teacher who worked at Bristol University developed a passion for viticulture on regular visits to France. But it is a challenge to cultivate this particular variety in the humidity of the valley, with cooling tides moving through from the nearby estuary. "I aimed to make Burgundian wines here, which is somewhat ambitious," says Reeve with amusement. "This variety is slow-maturing and particularly vulnerable to mildew."

"I wanted to make Burgundian wines here, which is rather ambitious"

The unpredictable local weather is not the only problem encountered by grape cultivators. The gardener has had to erect a barrier on

Rachel Wells
Rachel Wells

A seasoned gaming enthusiast with over a decade of experience in reviewing online casinos and sharing winning strategies.